Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
